Why Is My Electrolux Washing Machine Door Seal Damaged or Mouldy?

Medium fix Updated 9 April 2026
Quick Fix

Run a 90°C empty drum clean cycle with a washing machine cleaner tablet to kill surface mould on the seal, then wipe the gasket folds thoroughly with a diluted white vinegar solution — if mould is only superficial this often resolves the smell and appearance within about 20 minutes.

Fault description

The door seal, also called the door gasket or boot seal, is the flexible rubber ring that sits between the drum opening and the door glass on your Electrolux washing machine. It creates a watertight barrier every time the door closes, and it flexes thousands of times over the machine's lifetime. When it becomes damaged — cracked, torn, or perforated — water can escape onto your floor during a wash cycle. When it becomes mouldy, it produces a musty smell that transfers to your laundry.

Mould and physical damage are two distinct problems, though they often appear together. Mould thrives in the damp, warm folds of the gasket, especially if the door is kept closed between washes. Physical damage — splits, tears, or holes — is usually caused by sharp objects caught in the seal, age-related rubber degradation, or incorrect loading habits. Both issues affect the same part and, depending on severity, may require either a thorough clean or a full seal replacement.

This fault is recorded across more than 5,400 Electrolux washing machine models, making it one of the most common maintenance issues owners encounter. The good news is that in many cases it is straightforward to address at home.

Causes

  • Mould and mildew build-up — Residual moisture trapped in the gasket folds after each wash creates ideal conditions for black mould. Keeping the door closed between cycles and using low-temperature washes frequently accelerates this growth significantly.
  • Sharp objects caught in the seal — Coins, underwire from bras, hair clips, and zip teeth can lodge between the drum and the gasket during a spin cycle. These objects cut or puncture the rubber, creating small tears that worsen over time and eventually allow water to leak.
  • Age-related rubber degradation — Over several years, the rubber compound in the gasket hardens, loses elasticity, and develops surface cracks. This is a natural ageing process that is accelerated by frequent high-temperature washes and harsh detergents.
  • Detergent and fabric softener residue — Excess detergent or softener that does not fully rinse away accumulates in the gasket folds, creating a sticky film that feeds mould and can chemically degrade the rubber surface over time.
  • Overloading the drum — Consistently overloading the machine forces laundry hard against the door seal during the spin cycle. Repeated mechanical stress stretches and weakens the rubber, eventually causing splits near the drum lip.
  • Incorrect installation of a previous seal — If the gasket was replaced previously and not seated correctly in its retaining groove, it can roll or pinch during operation, leading to premature tearing at the edges.

Step-by-Step Fix

  1. 1

    Inspect the seal carefully in good light

    Open the door and pull back the gasket folds all the way around the drum opening. Use a torch to look for cuts, holes, tears, or embedded objects. Distinguish between surface mould — which appears as black or grey spots — and physical damage such as splits or perforations, as this determines whether cleaning or replacement is needed.

  2. 2

    Remove any trapped objects

    If you find a coin, wire, or clip lodged in the seal, carefully remove it with your fingers or blunt-nosed pliers. Check whether the object has caused a cut. A small nick under 5 mm may not leak immediately, but monitor it closely over the next few washes.

  3. 3

    Clean surface mould from the gasket

    Mix equal parts white vinegar and warm water, or use a proprietary washing machine cleaner. Apply the solution to the gasket folds with an old toothbrush, scrubbing firmly into all the creases. Wipe away residue with a dry cloth. For heavy mould, a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water left for 10 minutes before scrubbing can be more effective.

  4. 4

    Run a hot maintenance wash

    After cleaning, run a 90°C empty cycle — or use your machine's dedicated drum-clean programme if it has one — with a washing machine cleaning tablet or 250 ml of white vinegar in the drum. This kills remaining mould spores deep in the rubber and flushes residue from the drum and pipes.

  5. 5

    Assess whether the seal needs replacing

    After cleaning, re-examine the gasket. If tears, holes, or deep cracks are present, or if mould has penetrated the rubber so deeply that it cannot be scrubbed away, the seal must be replaced. A damaged seal will not form a reliable watertight barrier and will continue to leak or harbour mould regardless of how often it is cleaned.

  6. 6

    Replace the door seal

    Disconnect the machine from the mains power supply. Remove the detergent drawer, unscrew the door trim panel, and release the retaining spring band that holds the gasket in place — a flat-head screwdriver works well for this. Pull the old seal free, fit the new gasket by aligning the drain hole at the bottom, and press the retaining band firmly back into its groove all the way around. Reassemble the trim and run a short cycle to check for leaks before returning the machine to normal use.

  7. 7

    Test for leaks after replacement

    Run a full 40°C wash cycle and observe the door area throughout. Check the floor around the machine and the inside of the door trim for any sign of moisture. If water escapes, the retaining band is likely not fully seated — switch off, unplug, and re-press the band into the groove before testing again.

When to call a service technician

Contact a service technician if the door seal has torn away from the drum housing and the retaining groove itself appears cracked or deformed, as this indicates a structural issue beyond a simple gasket swap. You should also seek professional help if water is leaking from behind the drum rather than from the door area, since this points to a separate internal fault — such as a damaged drum bearing seal or sump hose — that requires specialist diagnosis.

If you are uncomfortable removing the door trim panel or working around the retaining spring band, a technician can complete the seal replacement safely and quickly, typically within a single visit. Attempting the job without confidence risks damaging the door trim clips or misaligning the new seal, which will cause immediate leaking.

Prevention

The most effective way to prevent mould on the door seal is to leave the washing machine door ajar after every wash, allowing the drum and gasket to dry out fully. Wipe the gasket folds dry with a cloth after each cycle if possible, and run a 90°C maintenance wash at least once a month. Use only the recommended quantity of detergent — excess detergent is one of the leading contributors to residue build-up and mould growth. Avoid washing items with exposed metal components, such as underwired bras or clothing with broken zips, without placing them in a laundry bag first.

When a replacement is needed, the parts most commonly required for this fault are the door seal gasket itself, the door seal retaining spring band (which can stretch or snap during removal), and occasionally the door trim panel if clips are broken during disassembly. Use the part finder below to locate the correct components for your specific Electrolux model.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Can I still use my washing machine if the door seal is slightly torn?

A small tear may not leak immediately, but it will worsen with every wash cycle and will eventually allow water to escape onto your floor. It is best to replace the seal as soon as you notice physical damage rather than waiting for a leak to develop. Continuing to use the machine also risks water reaching the motor or electrical components beneath the drum.

How do I know if the mould on my door seal is too bad to clean?

If scrubbing with vinegar or a dedicated cleaner removes the visible mould and the rubber underneath looks intact and flexible, cleaning has been successful. If the mould has stained the rubber permanently, returns within a few washes despite regular cleaning, or the rubber feels soft and spongy in affected areas, the seal has been degraded and should be replaced.

How long does it take to replace an Electrolux washing machine door seal?

Most homeowners with basic DIY confidence can complete the job in 45 to 90 minutes. The majority of that time is spent removing and refitting the door trim panel and working the retaining spring band back into position. Having the correct replacement part to hand before you start makes the process considerably smoother.

Why does my washing machine smell even after I have cleaned the door seal?

Mould and bacteria can also accumulate in the detergent drawer, the drawer housing, the drum itself, and the drain filter. If the smell persists after cleaning the gasket, remove and clean the detergent drawer thoroughly, check and empty the drain filter at the front bottom of the machine, and run another 90°C empty cycle. Persistent odours after all of these steps may indicate a blocked or slow-draining pump.

Is a door seal replacement covered under warranty?

Mould damage is generally considered a maintenance issue and is not covered under standard manufacturer warranties, as it results from usage habits rather than a manufacturing defect. Physical damage caused by a foreign object is similarly unlikely to be covered. If your machine is relatively new and the seal has cracked or split without any obvious cause, it is worth contacting Electrolux customer support to discuss whether a goodwill repair or replacement might apply.