Why Is My Electrolux Washing Machine Not Heating the Water?
Run a 60°C cotton cycle and place your hand on the door glass after 10 minutes — if the glass is not warm, check and reset the circuit breaker for the washing machine circuit, as a partial power fault can disable the heater while leaving the motor running (takes about 5 minutes).
Fault description
When an Electrolux washing machine fails to heat water, the drum still fills, agitates, and drains as normal — so the fault can go unnoticed until you pull out clothes that smell musty or feel under-washed. The heating system is a separate electrical circuit inside the machine, which is why everything else can appear to work perfectly while the water stays cold throughout the entire programme.
The fault is most commonly linked to the heating element itself, the NTC temperature sensor, or the control board that manages the heating cycle. Electrolux machines may display error codes E60, E61, E62, E68, or E71 when a heating fault is detected, though some models will simply complete the cycle silently without triggering any visible alert.
Because this fault involves high-voltage components, some steps require a multimeter and basic electrical confidence. Work through the checks below in order before deciding whether a repair is within your comfort level.
Causes
- Failed heating element — The heating element is a resistive coil submerged in the drum sump. Over time it burns out or develops a break in the coil, preventing it from generating heat entirely. This is the single most common cause of a cold-wash fault and is associated with error codes E60 and E61.
- Faulty NTC temperature sensor — The NTC (negative temperature coefficient) sensor monitors water temperature and reports it to the control board. If the sensor drifts out of calibration or fails open-circuit, the board either never activates the heater or cuts it off prematurely. Error codes E71 and E62 are commonly linked to sensor faults.
- Defective control board or relay — The main PCB contains a relay that switches power to the heating element. If this relay burns out or the board develops a fault, the heating circuit receives no power even though the element itself is intact. Error code E68 can point to a board-level heating fault.
- Wiring harness damage or loose connector — The wiring loom connecting the element and sensor to the control board can suffer from heat stress, vibration, or rodent damage. A loose spade connector on the element terminals is a surprisingly frequent cause that is easy to overlook.
- Heavy limescale build-up on the element — In hard-water areas, calcium deposits coat the element surface, insulating it and causing it to overheat and fail prematurely. A scaled element may still show continuity on a multimeter but will not heat efficiently and will eventually trip the thermal cut-out.
- Tripped thermal cut-out (thermostat) — Some Electrolux models include a thermal safety cut-out that trips if the element overheats. Unlike a fuse, some versions can be manually reset, but a repeated trip indicates an underlying problem with the element or sensor that must be addressed.
Step-by-Step Fix
- 1
Confirm the fault and check for error codes
Select a 60°C or 90°C programme and start the machine. After 10–15 minutes, carefully feel the door glass — it should be noticeably warm. If it is cold, the heater is not working. Check the display for any stored error codes (E60, E61, E62, E68, E71) by consulting your model's diagnostic mode, usually accessed by holding two buttons simultaneously as described in the user manual.
- 2
Check the power supply and circuit breaker
A partial electrical fault — such as a tripped breaker or a blown fuse on the heating circuit — can leave the motor running while cutting power to the element. Go to your consumer unit and check that the breaker for the washing machine circuit is fully on. Reset it if it has tripped, then retest. Also confirm the machine is plugged directly into a wall socket, not an extension lead.
- 3
Inspect the heating element with a multimeter
Disconnect the machine from the mains. Remove the rear panel to access the element, which sits at the bottom of the drum. Disconnect the wiring connectors and set your multimeter to resistance (Ω). A healthy element typically reads between 20–30 Ω; an open-circuit reading (OL or infinite) confirms the element has failed and needs replacing. Also check that the spade connectors are firmly seated and show no signs of burning.
- 4
Test the NTC temperature sensor
With the machine still unplugged, locate the NTC sensor — it is usually clipped into the element housing or mounted nearby on the drum sump. Disconnect it and measure resistance across its two terminals. At room temperature (around 20°C) a typical NTC sensor reads approximately 10,000–12,000 Ω. A reading of zero or infinite resistance indicates a failed sensor. Replacement sensors are inexpensive and straightforward to fit.
- 5
Check the wiring harness and connectors
Trace the wiring from the element and sensor back toward the control board. Look for any wires that are pinched, chafed, or have melted insulation. Gently tug each connector to confirm it is fully seated. A connector that pulls off with minimal force needs to be re-crimped or replaced. Repair any damaged insulation with heat-shrink tubing before reassembling.
- 6
Inspect and reset the thermal cut-out if present
Some Electrolux models have a resettable thermal cut-out mounted on or near the element. It is a small disc-shaped component with a reset button in the centre. Press the button firmly with a pen tip — you should feel a click. If it trips again on the next cycle, the underlying cause (usually a failing element or sensor) must be resolved before the machine is safe to use.
- 7
Replace the heating element
If the element has failed continuity testing, source a genuine Electrolux replacement element matched to your model number (found on the label inside the door frame). Fit the new element into the drum sump, ensuring the rubber seal seats correctly to prevent leaks. Reconnect all wiring, refit the rear panel, and run a 60°C test cycle to confirm the repair. The door glass should feel warm within 15 minutes.
When to call a service technician
If you have replaced the heating element and NTC sensor but the machine still does not heat, the fault is most likely on the main control board. Board-level diagnosis and replacement require specialist equipment and an understanding of PCB circuits — this is not a straightforward DIY repair, and an incorrect replacement can cause further damage to the machine.
You should also contact a service technician immediately if you notice any burning smell, scorch marks around the element terminals, or signs of water leaking from the drum sump area. These indicate a safety risk that should not be operated until inspected by a qualified professional.
Prevention
The parts most commonly replaced when an Electrolux washing machine stops heating are the heating element, the NTC temperature sensor, and occasionally the main control board relay. Using genuine Electrolux parts ensures correct resistance ratings and a proper fit, which reduces the risk of the fault recurring. In hard-water areas, using a monthly drum-clean cycle with a descaling tablet significantly extends element life by preventing the calcium build-up that causes premature burnout.
Search for compatible parts for your specific model using the tool below — enter your full model number from the label inside the door frame for accurate results.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can I still use my Electrolux washing machine if it is not heating?
You can run cold-water cycles safely in the short term, but washing at cold temperatures will not effectively remove bacteria, grease, or heavy soiling. Avoid using the machine on hot programmes until the fault is fixed, as a failing element can occasionally cause electrical issues. It is best to resolve the fault promptly.
What does error code E61 mean on an Electrolux washing machine?
Error code E61 indicates that the control board is not detecting a rise in water temperature during the heating phase. This usually points to a failed heating element, but a faulty NTC sensor giving a false temperature reading can produce the same code. Work through the element and sensor checks in the guide above to identify which component has failed.
How long does a washing machine heating element last?
In average use, a heating element typically lasts 5–10 years. Elements in hard-water areas tend to fail sooner due to limescale build-up. Using a water softener or monthly descaling tablets can meaningfully extend element life. If your machine is older than 8 years and the element has failed, it is worth comparing the repair cost against the cost of a replacement appliance.
Is replacing a washing machine heating element a DIY job?
For someone comfortable with basic electrical work and using a multimeter, replacing a heating element is a manageable DIY repair. The main risks are failing to disconnect the power before starting and not seating the rubber seal correctly, which can cause a leak. If you are unsure at any point, it is safer to call a service technician rather than risk water or electrical damage.
Why does my Electrolux washing machine show no error code but still not heat?
Some Electrolux models only display heating error codes if the temperature sensor is also reporting a fault. If the sensor has failed in a way that makes the board think the water is already hot, the machine will skip the heating phase without raising an alert. Testing the NTC sensor with a multimeter as described in Step 4 will confirm whether this is the case.