Samsung F1035 – Error Codes & Troubleshooting

The washing machine is unable to drain water properly, leaving water in the drum at the end of the cycle. The most common causes are a blocked drain filter, a kinked or improperly installed drain hose, or debris in the drainage system. Start by checking and cleaning the drain filter, inspecting the drain hose for kinks or blockages, and ensuring it's installed correctly.

The washing machine has detected a water level problem or moisture where it shouldn't be, typically caused by a faulty water level sensor, incorrect sensor connections, or an actual leak. Check the water inlet hoses for proper connection, inspect the drum and seals for leaks, and verify the sensor connections are secure. If the issue persists after these checks, the sensor itself may need replacement.

The washing machine cannot correctly sense the water level or pressure inside the drum, usually due to a faulty water level sensor, blocked sensor tube, or pressure sensing issue. The most common cause is a clogged or blocked sensor tube that prevents accurate water level detection. You can try blowing out the water sensor tube or checking for blockages as a first DIY step.

The washing machine's water level sensor or pressure switch is not functioning properly, preventing the machine from detecting water fill levels correctly. Common causes include clogged water inlet screens, excessive detergent causing foam issues, or a faulty pressure hose. Start by checking and cleaning the inlet screens and pressure hose, then reset the washer; if the error persists, the sensor itself may need replacement.

The 1LC error code indicates a water leak has been detected inside the washing machine, typically triggered by a leak sensor. Common causes include a clogged dispenser, blocked hoses, or loose connections. Start by checking that water inlet hoses are properly connected and not kinked, then inspect the detergent dispenser for clogs and clean if necessary.

The 3C error indicates the washing machine motor is not functioning properly, typically due to a faulty motor, hall sensor, or motor control board. The motor may receive power but fails to spin at the correct speed, or the hall sensor fails to communicate proper speed feedback to the main control board. This is usually not a DIY fix and requires professional diagnosis to determine whether the motor, hall sensor, or PCB needs replacement.

The 3E error indicates the washing machine's control board cannot communicate with the motor or is not receiving feedback from the hall sensor/tachometer. This is typically caused by worn motor brushes, faulty motor tach sensor, loose wire connections, or internal motor failure. Start by unplugging the machine for 5–10 minutes to reset, then check all wire connections to the motor and control board if accessible.

Error 3E1 indicates a motor overload condition or failure of the hall/tachometer sensor that monitors motor speed. This can occur from excessive load in the drum, worn wiring connections to the motor or control board, or a faulty position sensor. Basic troubleshooting includes unplugging the machine for 30 seconds and inspecting all motor and control board wiring for damage or loose connections.

The motor is drawing too much power or cannot spin freely, triggering an overload protection shutdown. Common causes include a stuck drum, foreign objects jamming the basket, worn bearings, a faulty spider arm, or a defective motor inverter module. Start by checking that the drum rotates freely by hand and removing any obstructions; if the problem persists, the motor or control board likely needs professional replacement.

The 3E3 error indicates a problem with the washing machine's motor or the electronic communication between the motor and control board. This can be caused by a power fluctuation, worn-out motor, faulty Hall sensor, or loose wire connections. Start by unplugging the machine for 30 seconds to reset the system, then check all wire connections to the motor and control board if the error persists.

This error indicates a problem with the motor or its tachometer sensor (hall sensor), which prevents the washing drum from rotating properly. The most common causes are loose wire connections to the motor or control board, or a faulty hall sensor. Start by unplugging the machine for 30 seconds to reset it, then check all wire connections to the motor and control board.

The washing machine is not receiving water during the fill cycle, typically caused by blocked inlet hoses, closed water supply valves, or a faulty water inlet valve. Start by checking that both hot and cold water supply valves are fully open, then inspect the inlet hoses for kinks or blockages and clean any filters.

The washer is not receiving enough water from the supply line, preventing it from filling properly. The most common causes are blocked or kinked inlet hoses, closed water faucets, or clogged inlet screens. Start by ensuring both water faucets are fully open, then inspect the supply hoses for kinks or blockages and clean the inlet screens if accessible.

The washing machine has detected that water is not draining within the normal timeframe. The most common causes are a blocked pump filter, kinked or clogged drain hose, or improper drain hose installation (should be inserted 6-8 inches into the standpipe). Start by cleaning the pump filter and checking the drain hose for kinks or blockages.

The washing machine has detected a drainage issue, meaning water is not draining properly from the drum. The most common causes are a blocked drain pump filter, a kinked or blocked drain hose, or debris (such as rubber backing from bath rugs) obstructing water flow. Start by cleaning the drain pump filter and inspecting the drain hose for kinks or blockages.

The washing machine has detected a drainage issue and cannot empty water properly, causing the spin cycle to fail. The most common causes are a clogged drain pump filter (blocked by hair, lint, coins, or socks), a kinked or blocked drain hose, or incorrect drain hose installation depth. Start by cleaning the pump filter and checking that the drain hose is inserted 6-8 inches into the standpipe and not kinked.

This error indicates a signal communication failure between the main control board and the motor inverter board. It's often a temporary glitch that resolves with a power reset. If the error persists after unplugging the machine for a few minutes and restarting, one of the boards may be defective and require professional replacement.

Error AC2 indicates a communication problem with the washing machine's I/O (Input/Output) board, which manages internal system diagnostics and component communication. This is typically an internal electronics fault rather than a mechanical issue. Try unplugging the machine for 5-10 minutes and plugging it back in to reset the board; if the error persists, the I/O board likely requires professional service.

The washing machine drum or agitator is not spinning or agitating during the wash cycle. Common causes include a stuck relay, worn motor brushes, loose or damaged wiring to the motor, motor belt issues, or a faulty motor control board. Start by unplugging the machine and checking for loose connections or visible damage to the motor and belt.

The AC4 error typically indicates either a water supply issue or a door lock problem on Samsung washing machines. Common causes include closed water faucets, kinked supply hoses, or a faulty door latch mechanism. Start by checking that both hot and cold water faucets are fully open and that the inlet hoses are not kinked or blocked.

The BC2 error indicates that one of the control panel buttons is stuck, jammed, or being held down for too long (over 30 seconds). This causes the washing machine to halt operation as a safety measure. Try pressing each button on the control panel to ensure none are physically stuck or sticking, and release any button being held.

The CE error indicates a temperature control problem, typically caused by a faulty temperature sensor, defective heating element, or wiring issues preventing proper water heating or cooling. The machine may show this error if water temperature exceeds 50°C during draining or if the sensor cannot detect temperature accurately. Check that inlet hoses are correctly connected to hot and cold water supplies; if connections are correct, the temperature sensor or heating element likely needs professional replacement.

The dE error indicates the washing machine door has not secured properly in its locking mechanism, preventing the cycle from starting or continuing. The most common causes are the door not closing completely, a faulty door lock assembly, or misaligned door latch tabs. Start by ensuring the door closes fully with firm pressure and check that the latch mechanism tabs retract properly when closing.

The dE2 error indicates a problem with the door lock switch or latch, preventing the door from locking properly during operation. Common causes include a misaligned door, items caught in the door seal, or a faulty door lock switch. Start by power-cycling the washer, checking that the door closes completely with no obstructions, and ensuring the latch is securely positioned.

The washing machine detects that the door is not properly secured in the locking mechanism, either because the door hasn't closed completely or the lock mechanism itself is faulty. Start by ensuring the door is fully closed and pushing hard to seat it properly, then check that the door latch tabs retract smoothly. If the door appears closed but the error persists, the door lock mechanism may need replacement.

The water level sensor is not working correctly, preventing the washer from detecting proper water levels during the cycle. Common causes include clogged water inlet screens or excessive detergent suds interfering with the sensor. Try cleaning the inlet screens and reducing detergent amount before considering professional repair.

The washing machine cannot detect water entering the drum during the wash cycle, which triggers the E1 error. Common causes include a clogged water inlet valve, blocked inlet screens, low water pressure, kinked hoses, or a faulty water level sensor. Start by checking that water supply valves are fully open, hoses aren't kinked or blocked, and inlet screens are clear of debris.

The FE error indicates the washing machine is detecting too much water or a problem with water level sensing. The most common cause is a faulty water inlet valve that fails to stop water flow, or a blocked/kinked pressure hose preventing accurate water level detection. Check the inlet valve, pressure hose for blockages or kinks, and the water level sensor before considering replacement parts.

The LC error indicates that a moisture or leak sensor has detected water where it shouldn't be—either from an actual leak or a sensor malfunction. Common causes include leaks in hoses or seals, excess detergent residue, or a faulty water level sensor itself. Start by inspecting visible hoses and drain pipes for leaks, then try running an empty cycle to see if the error clears.

The washing machine detects either that water is not draining within the expected time, or that too much water is entering the drum. The most common causes are a clogged drain filter, kinked or blocked drain hose, faulty water inlet valve, or a defective water level sensor. Start by checking the drain hose for kinks and clearing the drain filter of debris.

This system error indicates a motor sensor fault or wiring issue in your washing machine. The most common causes are loose or corroded wiring connections to the motor sensor, motor overheating, or a faulty sensor itself. Start by checking all wiring connections to the motor and sensor are tight and clean; if the problem persists, the motor or control board may need professional service.

The washing machine's thermistor (temperature sensor) is not reading water temperature correctly or has failed entirely. This prevents the machine from monitoring and controlling water temperature during the wash cycle. Check wiring connections to the sensor first; if connections are secure, the thermistor or control board may need replacement.

The washing machine has detected an unbalanced load during the wash or spin cycle and stopped spinning for safety reasons to prevent excessive vibration and damage. This is commonly caused by the load being too large, too small, or unevenly distributed in the drum. To fix it, stop the machine, manually redistribute the clothes evenly inside the drum, and restart the cycle.