What Does Error Code 1E Mean on a Samsung Washing Machine?
Power cycle the machine by switching it off at the wall, waiting 60 seconds, and turning it back on — this clears temporary sensor glitches and resolves the error in many cases (takes about 2 minutes).
Fault description
Error code 1E points to a problem with how your Samsung washing machine monitors its water level. The pressure sensor — sometimes called a water level sensor — is responsible for telling the machine how much water is in the drum. When it cannot get a reliable reading, or when water isn't filling correctly, the machine throws the 1E code and halts the cycle.
When this error appears, the washer will typically stop mid-cycle or refuse to start a new one. You may notice the drum is empty or only partially filled. In some cases, excessive suds from too much detergent can fool the sensor into thinking the drum is full when it isn't, triggering the same fault.
The good news is that the majority of 1E errors are caused by simple, fixable issues — blocked inlet screens, kinked hoses, or a clogged pressure hose — rather than a failed component.
Causes
- Clogged water inlet filter screens — Small mesh screens sit inside the water inlet valve connections and catch debris from your water supply. Over time these screens block up, restricting flow and causing the sensor to report an incorrect water level.
- Kinked or blocked inlet hose — If the hose running from your tap to the machine is bent, pinched, or partially blocked, water cannot enter the drum at the right rate. Even a slight kink is enough to trigger the 1E code.
- Blocked or damaged pressure hose — The pressure hose connects the drum to the water level sensor. If it becomes clogged with detergent residue or develops a crack, the sensor receives a false or absent signal and the machine stops.
- Excessive detergent causing over-sudsing — Too much detergent — or using non-HE detergent in a high-efficiency machine — creates a thick layer of suds that the pressure sensor can misread as water. This confuses the water level logic and triggers the error.
- Water supply tap not fully open — If the hot or cold water tap behind the machine has been partially closed, water pressure into the machine drops below what the inlet valve needs to operate correctly.
- Faulty water level sensor or inlet valve — Less commonly, the pressure sensor itself or the water inlet valve solenoid can fail electrically. In these cases the error will persist even after all hoses and screens have been checked and cleared.
Step-by-Step Fix
- 1
Power cycle the washing machine
Turn the machine off using the power button, then switch it off at the wall socket. Wait a full 60 seconds before turning it back on. This clears any temporary sensor glitch stored in the control board and is the quickest first check.
- 2
Check that both water supply taps are fully open
Locate the hot and cold water taps behind or beside the machine. Turn each one fully counter-clockwise to ensure maximum flow. A partially closed tap is a surprisingly common cause of this error and takes seconds to rule out.
- 3
Inspect the inlet hoses for kinks or damage
Pull the machine gently away from the wall and run your hand along both inlet hoses from the tap to the back of the machine. Straighten any bends or kinks you find. If a hose is crushed or cracked, it will need replacing before the error clears.
- 4
Clean the water inlet filter screens
Turn off the water supply taps and unscrew the inlet hoses from the back of the machine. Inside each connection port you will see a small mesh screen. Use a soft toothbrush and warm water to gently scrub away any sediment or limescale. Reattach the hoses firmly and turn the water back on.
- 5
Check your detergent type and quantity
Make sure you are using HE (high-efficiency) detergent and that you are not exceeding the recommended dose marked on the detergent packaging. Run a short empty cycle on a hot wash to flush out any existing suds buildup from the drum and hoses.
- 6
Inspect and clean the pressure hose
The pressure hose is a thin rubber or plastic tube that runs from the side of the drum up to the water level sensor, usually located near the top of the machine. Disconnect it at both ends and blow gently through it to check it is clear. Rinse it with warm water if you find any residue, and check for cracks or splits along its length.
- 7
Run a test cycle and monitor the fill
After completing the steps above, select a short wash cycle and watch the machine during the fill phase. If water enters the drum steadily and the error does not reappear, the fault is resolved. If the error returns immediately, the water level sensor or inlet valve is likely faulty and will need professional assessment.
Affected models
Select your model to see its full troubleshooting page.
When to call a service technician
If you have worked through all the steps above — cleared the inlet screens, straightened the hoses, cleaned the pressure hose, and confirmed the water supply is fully open — and the 1E error still returns every time you start a cycle, the fault is most likely inside the machine. A failed water level sensor or a burned-out water inlet valve solenoid cannot be resolved by cleaning alone.
You should also call a service technician if you notice water leaking from the inlet valve connections after reassembly, if the machine makes an unusual buzzing sound during the fill phase, or if the error code appears on a machine that is less than a year old, as this may indicate a warranty repair.
Spare parts and service
Visit our partners for spare parts and service
Spare parts
Book a repair
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I still use my washing machine when the 1E error is showing?
No — when the 1E code is active, the machine will stop the cycle and lock out further operation until the fault is cleared. Attempting to force a cycle is not possible and could mask a developing problem. Work through the troubleshooting steps first, then run a test cycle to confirm the error is gone.
How do I know if my water level sensor has actually failed?
If you have cleaned the pressure hose, confirmed it is not cracked, and the error still appears consistently, the sensor itself is the likely culprit. A service technician can test the sensor's resistance with a multimeter to confirm failure. Replacing it is a straightforward repair but does require accessing the top or rear panel of the machine.
Could hard water cause the 1E error code?
Yes, indirectly. Hard water deposits limescale on the inlet filter screens and inside the pressure hose over time, gradually restricting flow and sensor accuracy. If you live in a hard water area, clean the inlet screens every three months and consider using a washing machine descaler every few months to keep internal components clear.
The 1E error appeared after I moved the machine — what should I check first?
Moving the machine is a very common trigger for this error because the inlet hoses often get kinked during the process. Start by pulling the machine out and carefully straightening both hoses. Also check that the water supply taps were fully reopened after the move, as these are sometimes left partially closed.
Is error code 1E the same as error code 1C on Samsung washers?
They refer to the same underlying fault — a water level sensor issue — and on some Samsung models the display alternates between 1E and 1C depending on the firmware version. The troubleshooting steps and likely causes are identical for both codes, so you can follow the same process regardless of which version appears on your display.