What Does Error Code 1LC Mean on a Samsung Washing Machine?
Clean the drain pump filter to remove any blockage that may be causing water to back up and trigger the leak sensor — remove the filter, clear any debris, refit it securely, and restart the cycle (takes about 10 minutes).
Fault description
The 1LC error code — sometimes shown as LC1 — means your Samsung washing machine's leak detection system has been activated. This can happen either because the machine has genuinely detected water in the base tray beneath the drum, or because the water level inside the drum has dropped unexpectedly during a wash cycle, which the machine interprets as a possible leak.
When this error appears, the machine will typically pause or stop the cycle to prevent further water damage. You may notice the drum still contains water, or the machine may attempt to drain before halting completely. In some cases, there is no visible leak at all — the fault can be triggered by a sensor issue or a drainage problem rather than an actual escape of water.
The good news is that a significant number of 1LC errors can be resolved at home without specialist tools. Working through the steps below in order will help you identify whether this is a simple blockage, a sensor fault, or something that needs professional attention.
Causes
- Blocked or clogged drain pump filter — A partially blocked filter can cause water to back up inside the machine, leading to unexpected water level changes that trigger the leak sensor. This is the most common cause of a 1LC code and is straightforward to check and clear.
- Kinked or incorrectly positioned drain hose — If the drain hose is kinked, crushed behind the machine, or inserted too far into the standpipe, water may not drain properly and can siphon back into the drum. This creates the appearance of a water level fault without any actual leak being present.
- Water pooled in the base tray — Samsung machines have a drip tray in the base that contains a float sensor. Even a small amount of water collecting here — from a previous minor leak or condensation — can trigger the 1LC code. Tilting the machine forward allows this water to drain away and can clear the error.
- Faulty or misaligned water level sensor (pressure switch) — The pressure switch monitors the water level inside the drum throughout the cycle. If it develops a fault or its connecting hose becomes loose or blocked, it may send incorrect readings that the machine interprets as a sudden drop in water level.
- Leaking door seal or drum hose — A worn or damaged door gasket, or a loose connection on one of the internal hoses leading to or from the drum, can allow water to escape into the base of the machine. This is a genuine leak scenario and will require a physical inspection of the seals and hose connections.
- Damaged or cracked drum or tub — In less common cases, a crack in the outer tub or drum can allow water to escape during a cycle. This is more likely on older machines or after a heavy impact, and will usually be accompanied by visible water pooling beneath the appliance.
Step-by-Step Fix
- 1
Tilt the machine forward to drain the base tray
Carefully lean the washing machine forward at roughly a 45-degree angle and hold it there for two to three minutes. This allows any water sitting in the base tray to drain out through the bottom. Place towels on the floor first. Once upright again, wait five minutes and then try restarting the machine to see if the error clears.
- 2
Clean the drain pump filter
Locate the filter access panel at the bottom front of the machine. Place a shallow tray and towels underneath, then slowly unscrew the filter cap to release any trapped water. Pull the filter out fully, remove any lint, coins, or debris, and rinse it under a tap. Refit the filter firmly — a loose filter is a common cause of leaks — and restart the cycle.
- 3
Check the drain hose for kinks or blockages
Pull the machine away from the wall and inspect the full length of the drain hose. Straighten out any kinks and ensure the hose is not being crushed by the machine's weight. The end of the hose should sit no more than 15 cm (6 inches) into the standpipe or drain outlet to prevent siphoning. Reposition if necessary.
- 4
Inspect the door seal for damage or debris
Open the door and run your fingers around the entire rubber door gasket, checking for tears, holes, or areas where the seal has pulled away from the drum. Also check for small items like coins or hairpins lodged in the seal's folds, which can prevent a watertight closure. A damaged seal will need to be replaced before the machine can be used safely.
- 5
Check internal hose connections
With the machine unplugged, remove the back panel using a screwdriver. Visually inspect the hoses connecting the drum, pump, and water inlet valve for any signs of moisture, drips, or loose clips. Gently press each hose connection to confirm it is seated firmly. Reattach any loose clips and check for cracks along the hose length.
- 6
Inspect and test the water level sensor
Locate the pressure switch — usually a small round component mounted high on the side of the cabinet, connected to the drum by a thin rubber hose. Check that the hose is firmly attached at both ends and is not blocked or kinked. If the hose is clear and connections are secure but the error persists, the sensor itself may be faulty and will need to be tested with a multimeter or replaced.
- 7
Run a short test cycle and monitor for leaks
Once you have worked through the steps above, run a short cycle such as a rinse and spin while watching the machine closely. Check underneath and around the door for any signs of water escaping. If the machine completes the cycle without displaying 1LC, the fault has been resolved. If the error returns, note exactly when in the cycle it appears, as this will help a service technician diagnose the fault more quickly.
Affected models
Select your model to see its full troubleshooting page.
When to call a service technician
If you can see water actively pooling beneath the machine during a cycle, or if the door seal is visibly torn and water is escaping around the door, stop using the machine immediately and contact a service technician. Similarly, if you have worked through all the steps above and the 1LC error continues to appear, the fault is likely with an internal component — such as the pressure switch, the main control board, or a cracked outer tub — that requires specialist diagnosis and replacement.
A service technician should also be called if you notice any signs of electrical burning, smell unusual odours during operation, or if the machine is leaking near any electrical components. Do not attempt to run the machine if water is reaching the wiring or motor area.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can I still use my washing machine when it shows error code 1LC?
It is not advisable to continue running the machine until you have identified the cause. If there is a genuine leak, running further cycles could cause water damage to your floor or the machine's electrical components. Work through the basic checks first — if the error was caused by a temporary water build-up in the base tray, the machine will be safe to use once the code has cleared.
Why does my Samsung washing machine show 1LC but there is no visible water on the floor?
This is quite common. The 1LC code can be triggered by water collecting in the internal base tray rather than leaking onto the floor, or by the water level sensor detecting an unexpected drop in drum water level. In both cases there may be no external leak at all. Tilting the machine forward to drain the base tray and cleaning the pump filter resolves the majority of these cases.
How do I reset the 1LC error code on a Samsung washing machine?
Once you have addressed the underlying cause, switch the machine off at the power button, unplug it from the wall socket, and wait at least five minutes before plugging it back in. This allows the control board to reset fully. If the root cause has been resolved, the error should not reappear when you start a new cycle.
Is the 1LC error the same as the LC error code on Samsung washers?
They are closely related. Both LC and 1LC (or LC1) relate to leak detection, but the specific variant displayed can indicate slightly different trigger points within the same detection system depending on the model. The diagnostic steps and likely causes are the same for all three codes, so the troubleshooting process in this guide applies equally to all of them.
How much does it cost to repair a Samsung washing machine showing error 1LC?
If the fix is simply cleaning the drain filter or repositioning the drain hose, there is no cost involved. Replacing a door seal typically costs between £20 and £60 for the part, plus labour if fitted by a service technician. A new pressure switch is usually under £30. If the fault turns out to be a cracked drum or a failed control board, repair costs will be higher and it may be worth comparing the repair cost against the age and value of the machine.