What Does Error Code 4C Mean on a Samsung Washing Machine?
Turn off the machine, disconnect both water inlet hoses, and clean the mesh filter screens at the hose connection points on the back of the machine using a small brush under running water, then reconnect and restart the cycle (takes about 10 minutes).
Fault description
Error code 4C is a water supply fault. When your Samsung washing machine displays 4C, it means the machine started a fill cycle but detected that water was not entering the drum at the expected rate or pressure. The wash cycle will pause or stop entirely until the issue is resolved.
This error affects the water intake system — specifically the path water takes from your household supply, through the inlet hoses, past the filter screens, and into the drum via the inlet valves. Any restriction or failure along that path can trigger the code.
The good news is that the most common causes are straightforward to check and fix without specialist tools. Working through the steps below in order will resolve the fault in the majority of cases.
Causes
- Blocked inlet hose filter screens — Small mesh filters sit inside the hose connections at the back of the machine and catch sediment from the water supply. Over time these screens become clogged with mineral deposits or debris, restricting flow enough to trigger the 4C error.
- Kinked or pinched water inlet hose — If the machine has been pushed back against a wall, the rubber inlet hoses can become kinked, partially or fully blocking water flow. Even a slight bend under sustained pressure can reduce flow below the level the machine requires.
- Tap not fully open — The hot and cold water supply taps behind or beneath the machine must be fully open. A tap that has been accidentally knocked to a partially closed position will reduce pressure and trigger this fault.
- Low household water pressure — Samsung washing machines require a minimum water pressure — typically around 0.5 bar — to fill correctly. If your home's supply pressure is temporarily low, for example during peak demand periods or due to a local supply issue, the machine may display 4C.
- Faulty or seized water inlet valve — The inlet valve is an electrically operated solenoid that opens to allow water into the machine. If the valve coil has failed or the valve body is blocked with scale, it will not open fully and water flow will be insufficient.
- Damaged or split inlet hose — A hose that has cracked or split may not hold enough pressure to deliver adequate flow, and can also cause a slow leak behind the machine. Inspect the full length of both hoses for visible damage.
Step-by-Step Fix
- 1
Check that the water supply taps are fully open
Locate the hot and cold water taps where the inlet hoses connect to your household supply — usually on the wall behind the machine. Turn each tap fully anticlockwise to ensure it is completely open. This takes under a minute and is the simplest possible cause to rule out first.
- 2
Inspect the inlet hoses for kinks
Gently pull the machine away from the wall and run your hand along both inlet hoses from the tap connection to the back of the machine. Straighten any kinks or bends you find. If a hose has been kinked repeatedly it may have a permanent crease inside — replace it if in doubt.
- 3
Clean the inlet hose filter screens
Turn off both water supply taps, then unscrew the inlet hoses from the back of the machine. Inside each connection port you will see a small mesh filter screen. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to carefully pull the screens out, then rinse them under a running tap and scrub gently with an old toothbrush. Refit the screens, reconnect the hoses, and tighten by hand plus a quarter turn.
- 4
Check your household water pressure
Turn on a cold tap elsewhere in your home and observe the flow. If pressure seems unusually low throughout the house, the issue is with your supply rather than the machine — contact your water provider. If pressure is normal everywhere else, the fault is isolated to the machine's water intake path.
- 5
Inspect the inlet hoses for damage
With the hoses disconnected, hold each one up to the light and flex it gently along its length. Look for cracks, splits, or bulges in the rubber. A damaged hose should be replaced before reconnecting — a split hose under mains pressure can cause significant water damage.
- 6
Test the water inlet valve
With the machine unplugged, remove the rear panel to access the inlet valve assembly. Check the valve body for visible scale build-up or cracks. You can test each solenoid coil for continuity using a multimeter — a reading outside the manufacturer's specified resistance range (typically 200–500 ohms) indicates a failed coil. A faulty valve will need to be replaced.
- 7
Reset the machine and run a test cycle
Once you have completed your checks and any repairs, plug the machine back in, turn on the water supply taps, and select a short wash cycle such as a quick wash or rinse. Monitor the machine during the initial fill phase to confirm water is entering the drum normally and the 4C code does not reappear.
Affected models
Select your model to see its full troubleshooting page.
When to call a service technician
If you have cleaned the filter screens, confirmed the hoses are undamaged and kink-free, verified your household water pressure is adequate, and the 4C error still appears, the inlet valve is the most likely remaining cause. Replacing an inlet valve involves working inside the machine's cabinet and disconnecting electrical connectors — if you are not comfortable doing this safely, a service technician should carry out the repair.
You should also call a service technician if the machine is displaying 4C alongside other error codes, if there is visible water leaking from the rear of the machine, or if the machine is still under warranty and you do not want to risk voiding it by opening the cabinet yourself.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can I still use my washing machine while it is showing error code 4C?
No — when 4C is displayed the machine has halted the cycle because it cannot fill with water. Running a cycle without adequate water supply can put unnecessary strain on the pump and drum components. Resolve the fault before attempting to use the machine again.
Will the 4C error clear itself once I fix the water supply issue?
In most cases, yes. Once you have resolved the underlying cause — cleaned the filters, straightened a hose, or replaced a faulty valve — simply restart the machine and select a new cycle. The error code should not reappear if the fault has been fully resolved. If it does return, there may be a secondary cause still to address.
My water pressure seems fine — why is my Samsung machine still showing 4C?
Normal pressure at other taps does not always rule out a flow restriction specific to the washing machine. The inlet filter screens can be partially blocked enough to restrict flow to the machine while having no noticeable effect elsewhere. Clean the filter screens as described in step 3 even if your general water pressure appears normal.
How do I know if my water inlet valve needs replacing rather than just cleaning?
If cleaning the filter screens and checking the hoses does not resolve the fault, test the inlet valve solenoid coils with a multimeter for continuity. A coil with no continuity or a resistance reading outside the specified range has failed and the valve assembly will need to be replaced. Scale build-up inside the valve body can sometimes be cleared, but a failed solenoid coil cannot be repaired.
Does error code 4C mean the same thing as error code 4E on Samsung washing machines?
Yes — 4C and 4E refer to the same water supply fault. Samsung uses both codes depending on the model and display type; older models with a numeric display tend to show 4E, while newer models with a letter-and-number display show 4C. The diagnosis and repair steps are identical for both codes.