What Does Error Code LC Mean on a Samsung Washing Machine?
Check and clean the drain hose for blockages, then wipe down the area beneath the drum and around the base of the machine to remove any standing moisture before restarting the cycle — this resolves the majority of LC errors (takes about 10 minutes).
Fault description
The LC error code is Samsung's way of telling you that its built-in leak detection system has picked up moisture in an unexpected location — typically in the base tray beneath the drum. When this happens, the machine will usually stop mid-cycle, lock the door, and display the LC code on the control panel to prevent further water damage.
The leak detection system works by monitoring a sensor positioned in the drip tray at the bottom of the machine. Even a small amount of water pooling there — whether from a genuine leak, condensation, or residue from excessive detergent — is enough to trigger the fault. The machine is not necessarily broken, but it is telling you something needs attention before it will run again.
In many cases the cause is straightforward: a kinked or blocked drain hose, a loose inlet hose connection, or a build-up of soap residue around the door seal or detergent drawer. Working through the checks below will help you identify and resolve the issue without needing specialist tools.
Causes
- Blocked or kinked drain hose — If the drain hose is partially blocked or bent sharply, water can back up and overflow internally, reaching the base tray. This is the most frequent trigger for the LC code and is usually easy to spot and clear.
- Leaking inlet hose or connection — The hot or cold water inlet hoses that connect to the back of the machine can develop small leaks at the fittings over time, especially if the rubber washers inside the connectors have worn. Even a slow drip can accumulate in the base tray and trigger the sensor.
- Excess detergent causing overflow — Using too much detergent, or a non-HE detergent in a high-efficiency machine, generates excessive foam that can spill out of the drum area and reach the base tray. This is a common cause that leaves no obvious visible leak.
- Damaged or deteriorated door seal — The rubber door gasket can develop small tears or cracks, particularly around the lower section, allowing water to escape during a wash cycle. Inspect the seal carefully for splits, holes, or areas where it has pulled away from the drum opening.
- Faulty or stuck water level sensor (pressure switch) — If the pressure switch or its connecting hose is faulty, the machine may misread the water level and allow overfilling, which can result in water reaching the base tray. A blocked pressure hose can produce the same effect.
- Loose or cracked internal hose connections — Internal hoses connecting the drum, pump, and dispenser drawer can loosen or crack with age and vibration. These leaks are not visible from outside the machine and require removing the outer panels to inspect.
Step-by-Step Fix
- 1
Switch off and unplug the machine
Before doing anything else, turn the machine off at the control panel and unplug it from the mains socket. This is essential for safety and also allows the leak detection sensor to reset if the moisture in the base tray evaporates. Leave the machine unplugged for at least 15 minutes.
- 2
Check and clear the drain hose
Pull the machine away from the wall and inspect the drain hose at the back. Look for kinks, sharp bends, or blockages. Disconnect the hose from the standpipe or sink and check that water flows freely through it. Straighten any kinks and reattach securely, making sure the hose is not pushed too far into the standpipe, which can cause siphoning.
- 3
Inspect the inlet hose connections
With the machine still pulled out, check both inlet hoses at the back of the machine and at the tap end. Feel along the length of each hose for dampness and look for mineral deposits or staining that might indicate a slow drip. Hand-tighten any loose connections and replace the rubber washers inside the fittings if they look flattened or cracked.
- 4
Examine the door seal
Open the door and run your fingers around the entire circumference of the rubber door gasket, paying particular attention to the lower section. Look for tears, holes, or areas where the seal has lifted away from its groove. If you find damage, the seal will need to be replaced before the machine is used again.
- 5
Dry the base tray and reset the machine
Tilt the machine carefully backwards by about 10–15 degrees to allow any water sitting in the base tray to drain towards the front, then mop it up with a dry cloth or towel. Once the tray is dry, stand the machine upright, plug it back in, and run a short empty rinse cycle to see if the LC code returns.
- 6
Run an empty cycle with reduced detergent
If no physical leak was found, excess foam may be the culprit. Run a 60°C empty drum clean cycle using no detergent, or a proprietary washing machine cleaner, to flush out soap residue. Going forward, reduce your detergent dose and ensure you are using an HE-rated product suitable for your machine.
- 7
Check the pressure switch hose
If the LC code persists after all the above steps, locate the thin plastic hose that runs from the side of the drum to the pressure switch (usually mounted near the top of the machine). Disconnect it at both ends and blow through it to confirm it is clear. A blocked or split pressure hose can cause the machine to overfill and trigger the leak sensor.
Affected models
Select your model to see its full troubleshooting page.
When to call a service technician
If you have worked through all the steps above and the LC code continues to appear, or if you can see water actively dripping from beneath the machine during a cycle, it is time to call a service technician. Persistent leaks that cannot be traced to the hoses or door seal often originate from the drum bearings, the pump housing, or cracked internal components — all of which require the machine to be partially dismantled to access safely.
You should also contact a service technician if the pressure switch or its wiring appears damaged, or if the machine is overfilling before the error appears. These faults involve electrical components and water in close proximity, and attempting repairs without the correct knowledge and tools carries a real risk of electric shock or further damage to the appliance.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can I reset the LC error code by turning the machine off and on?
A power cycle alone will not permanently clear the LC code if the underlying cause — such as moisture in the base tray or a leaking hose — has not been addressed. You need to dry out the base tray and fix any leak first. Once the sensor area is dry and the fault is resolved, the code should clear when you restart the machine.
Is it safe to use the washing machine while the LC code is showing?
No. The LC code is a protective fault that stops the machine from running to prevent water damage to your home and to the appliance itself. You should not attempt to override or ignore it. Resolve the cause of the moisture detection before running another cycle.
Why does my Samsung washing machine show LC even though I can't see any leak?
The leak detection sensor sits in the base tray and can be triggered by very small amounts of water — sometimes just condensation or foam overflow from too much detergent. If there is no visible external leak, try running an empty drum clean cycle and reducing your detergent dose. If the code still appears, the pressure switch or its hose may be faulty.
How do I dry out the base tray on a Samsung washing machine?
Unplug the machine and carefully tilt it backwards by around 10–15 degrees, supporting it safely, so that any pooled water moves towards the front access panel. Use a dry towel or cloth to soak up the water. Leave the machine tilted for a few minutes, then stand it upright and allow it to air for at least 15–20 minutes before plugging back in.
How much does it cost to fix a Samsung washing machine LC error?
If the fault is a blocked drain hose or excess detergent, the fix costs nothing. Replacing inlet hose washers costs just a few pounds. A new door seal typically costs between £20 and £50 for the part, plus labour if fitted by a service technician. A pressure switch replacement is usually in a similar price range for the part itself.