What Does Error Code E64 Mean on a Siemens Washing Machine?
Check and clean the filter at the bottom front of the machine to rule out restricted water flow affecting the heating circuit, then run a short 40°C cycle to see if E64 clears (takes about 10 minutes).
Fault description
Error code E64 points to a problem in your Siemens washing machine's heating circuit. This circuit is responsible for warming the water to the temperature you select on the dial or display. When the machine's control board detects that the water is not reaching the expected temperature — or that a sensor reading is outside the normal range — it stops the programme and displays E64 to prevent damage to your laundry or the appliance itself.
When this error appears, the wash cycle will typically pause or stop mid-programme, often during the main wash phase when heating is required. The drum may continue to turn briefly, but the machine will not progress until the fault is resolved. In some Siemens models the error may appear immediately at the start of a heated cycle, while in others it surfaces after several minutes once the control board has had time to assess the heating performance.
The fault can stem from a failed heating element, a faulty NTC temperature sensor, wiring issues, or in some cases a problem with the main control board. Most of these causes are identifiable with basic checks before you consider calling a service technician.
Causes
- Faulty heating element — The heating element is the most common cause of E64. Over time, elements can burn out or develop an internal break, meaning they draw no current and the water stays cold, triggering the fault.
- Failed NTC temperature sensor — The NTC (negative temperature coefficient) sensor monitors water temperature and reports back to the control board. If it fails or drifts out of calibration, the board receives an implausible reading and raises E64 even if the element itself is working.
- Damaged or loose wiring to the heating circuit — The wiring harness connecting the heating element and sensor to the control board can suffer from vibration, heat, or moisture over time. A loose connector or corroded terminal can interrupt the circuit and produce the same error as a component failure.
- Limescale build-up on the heating element — In hard water areas, limescale deposits coat the element and insulate it, reducing its ability to heat water efficiently. Severe build-up can cause the element to overheat locally and fail, or cause the sensor to record erratic temperatures.
- Faulty main control board (PCB) — If the PCB cannot correctly send power to the heating element or interpret the sensor signal, it may log E64 as a precaution. This is less common but should be considered if all other components test as healthy.
Step-by-Step Fix
- 1
Power cycle the machine
Switch the machine off at the mains socket and leave it unplugged for two minutes. Plug it back in, select a 40°C or 60°C programme, and start it. Occasionally a temporary voltage spike can trigger E64, and a full power reset clears it. If the error does not return, no further action is needed.
- 2
Clean the pump filter
Locate the small access panel at the bottom front of the machine. Place a towel and a shallow tray underneath, then unscrew the filter cap slowly to drain residual water. Remove any debris — fluff, coins, or grit — from the filter and housing. A blocked filter can restrict water circulation and indirectly affect heating performance.
- 3
Run a drum-clean or maintenance wash
Add a proprietary washing machine descaler or a cup of white vinegar to the drum and run the hottest cycle available with no laundry inside. This helps dissolve limescale from the heating element. In hard water areas, do this every one to three months as routine maintenance.
- 4
Inspect the wiring connections to the heating element and sensor
Unplug the machine and pull it away from the wall. Remove the rear panel (usually held by two or three screws). Locate the heating element at the bottom of the drum and the NTC sensor clipped nearby. Check that all connectors are firmly seated and look for any signs of burning, corrosion, or melted insulation. Reseat any loose connectors and replace any visibly damaged wiring.
- 5
Test the NTC temperature sensor with a multimeter
Disconnect the sensor's two-pin connector and set your multimeter to resistance (Ohms). At room temperature, a healthy NTC sensor typically reads between 20,000 and 30,000 Ohms — check your model's service data if available. A reading of zero or infinite resistance indicates a failed sensor that needs replacing.
- 6
Test the heating element with a multimeter
With the machine still unplugged and the rear panel removed, disconnect the two spade terminals from the heating element. Set your multimeter to resistance and touch the probes to the two terminals. A working element typically reads between 20 and 50 Ohms. A reading of infinite resistance (open circuit) confirms the element has failed and must be replaced.
- 7
Replace the faulty component
If your tests have identified a failed element or sensor, source the correct replacement part using your machine's full model number (found on the label inside the door frame). Both parts are generally accessible from the rear of the machine and can be replaced with basic tools. If both components test as healthy, the fault is likely in the control board and a service technician should be consulted.
Affected models
Select your model to see its full troubleshooting page.
When to call a service technician
If you have tested both the heating element and the NTC sensor with a multimeter and both return readings within the expected range, the fault most likely lies with the main control board (PCB). PCB diagnosis and replacement requires specialist equipment and knowledge of the machine's wiring diagram, and attempting it without experience risks further damage to the appliance.
You should also contact a service technician if you find burnt or melted wiring inside the machine, if the machine trips your household circuit breaker when a heated programme is selected, or if E64 returns immediately after you have already replaced the heating element or sensor. These symptoms suggest a deeper electrical fault that needs professional assessment.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can I still use my Siemens washing machine while it shows E64?
You can run a cold wash (30°C or a programme labelled 'cold') as this bypasses the heating element entirely. However, you should resolve the fault before using heated programmes, as a failing element can draw excessive current and place strain on other electrical components over time.
How much does it cost to replace a Siemens washing machine heating element?
Replacement heating elements for Siemens washing machines typically cost between £20 and £50 for the part alone, depending on the model. If you fit it yourself the total cost stays low. A service technician call-out and labour will add to this, so it is worth attempting the replacement yourself if you are comfortable working with basic tools and the machine is unplugged.
How do I find the model number on my Siemens washing machine?
The model number is printed on a sticker inside the door frame — open the door and look around the inner rim of the drum opening. It usually starts with letters such as WM or WG followed by a string of numbers. You will need this number to order the correct heating element or NTC sensor, as parts are not universal across the Siemens range.
Could a power surge cause E64 to appear?
Yes, a brief power surge or interruption during a heated cycle can cause the control board to log E64 as a precaution. A full power cycle — unplugging the machine for two minutes — is always worth trying first. If the error does not return on the next heated wash, no component has actually failed.
Is E64 the same fault on all Siemens washing machine models?
E64 consistently relates to the heating circuit across Siemens washing machine models, but the exact component that triggers it can vary slightly. On some models it is more closely associated with the NTC sensor, while on others the heating element is the primary suspect. Always cross-reference with your model's manual or the label inside the door for model-specific guidance.